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Leamington Letters #50: "you don't know what you've got 'til it's gone"

3/9/2013

20 Comments

 
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In the last month, two more chain restaurants have opened in the centre of Leamington Spa. Meanwhile, a much-loved, family-run independent restaurant has closed. On the window of the empty premises is this poignant message.

Âme Sœur was a lovely little restaurant, run by lovely people. Jill and I visited a couple of times and found it homely, friendly, welcoming and infinitely superior to any of the local representatives of the national chains.

But, like so many independent operations in a town which used to be famous for its independents, Àme Sœur has fallen foul of the big chains and their massive buying power, their microwaves, their systems and their special offers.

Carluccio's and Nando's have moved in to join Prezzo and Strada and Wagamama and Pizza Hut and Pizza Express and a host of others, all attracted by a wining and dining culture which was created from scratch by small independent bars and bistros over the last thirty years or so.

Now, they are setting about destroying the very establishments which created their marketplace.

This appears to be a matter of supreme indifference to a council which remains committed to yet another mall, despite public opposition. After all, as long the rates come in, who cares about the culture of the town? And if they can raise the tax base by knocking down a few Regency frontages and building five storey brick walls within a few feet of independent restaurants, what the hell?, let's do it. 

Independents, you see, don't have the resources to fight the bureaucracies. They are devoting their limited resources to the struggle to stay alive in an environment in which their chain gang competition is offering 40% off here and free bottles of wine there, two meals for the price of one here and pints for halves there.

You can't blame the consumer. In a recession, especially in a recession, the consumer takes any and every deal going. Which is why, to paraphrase Marx, 'man is born free but is everywhere in chain restaurants'.

It won't last of course. In a year or two, what's fashionable now will become unfashionable. And some hedge fund which cares little for quality and customer service, except as items on a balance sheet, will rebrand them and sign up some other celebrity to lend their name, and the process will begin again.

I've majored on the hospitality industry because that is the area of activity in which I have a (vested) interest. But of course the same principle applies up and down our High Streets.

The big names get the prime sites and set the rent levels. Every throw of every dice is loaded in their favour.

Almost everyone I know is sad about the closure of Àme Sœur. But did they patronise it? Or did they sneak off to Strada because they'd just got some free meal deal from Vouchercloud on their iPhone?

Of course they did. But that's the nub: "you don't know what you've got 'til it's gone".

Our best wishes to Jason and Sarah. Good luck!


Today from the everysmith vault: still listening to - and still loving - Another Self Portrait.

20 Comments
Allan
3/9/2013 03:12:22

It's called capitalism, Max. You of all people should know that.

Reply
David
3/9/2013 07:49:33

Yes, it is capitalism. Yes, they will take over the world. And yes, the councils which are the most direct and local voices of the people are complicit. Keep the faith.

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Max
12/9/2013 03:54:06

I know, I know. But in this particular case, it is particularly unfortunate and distressing.

Sean
3/9/2013 03:39:59

Sickening and infuriating that so few people seem to have any taste or understanding that the finer things in life need not come from a bulging wallet, but merely from an appreciation of fresh ingredients and an open mind. This country smothers itself in self-congratulatory ignorance. As your blogs from France highlight, something in this country broke a long time ago when it comes to gastronomy in the UK when compared to other more enlightened parts of the world. But, sadly, we are too far gone down the road of an uncaring and unaware public and dividend chasing stock portfolio managers to save it. Makes me all the more thankful for places like yours, and the excellent and enticing independent restaurants and food suppliers I can go to here in Bristol. All we can do is strive to be the change we want to see in the world, and encourage people to avoid these chains and choose real food and unique environments in which to eat it.

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Max
12/9/2013 03:55:23

You're right, Sean. There are still some remaining and other brave people starting up. We need to cherish them.

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Lisa
3/9/2013 07:03:25

Leamington is not the only town to suffer in this way. My part of the world is also blighted by these chains which cater to the lowest common denominator diners. Has anyone ever paid the listed price for a meal in Strada? It is all discounts. These places are the Tescos of restaurants.

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Max
12/9/2013 03:57:39

I think this is right. They have the resources to buy their marketplace. Ame Sœur did not. Their quality and warmth would once have been enough. No longer.

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MichaelMac
3/9/2013 07:13:45

Strada is an interesting example of the way these places operate. Starts off well, proper food, friendly service, ok wines. Then, having established itself and closed down the small Italians in the region, increases prices, cuts quality and portions and so on

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Max
12/9/2013 03:59:58

True. I even ventured there myself with friends, and it wasn't bad. But that was at the beginning. And in Leamington, Nando has moved next door. Strada will probably go even further down-market, with even more 'meal deals', to keep going.

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Richard
3/9/2013 07:23:45

Like the Marx (mis)quote. But of course this is a real issue. Every town looks the same and offers the same options. Or lack of them. Strada is one of the worst because it pretends to be something better than it is. At least the pizza places and McDonald's are what they are. The independents are our only hope. Use them or lose them.

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Max
12/9/2013 04:01:38

Agree. Fast food is one thing. I accept a place for it. But it is chains pretending to be authentic and customers believing that it is which upset me.

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Ellie
3/9/2013 07:39:06

I wouldn't set foot in any of those you mention. And nor could I love anyone who did. Here's to the independents and love, although I didn't know them, to the couple from Ame Sœur.

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Max
12/9/2013 04:02:57

Excellent. Had a lovely email from them and I am sure they will have read your comment.

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Rob
4/9/2013 09:41:04

Sad but so typical. We unfortunately have to live with the fact that the majority of the population can't even tell the difference.

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Max
12/9/2013 04:04:10

Hate to admit that this is the case, but I suspect you're right.

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Dan
4/9/2013 09:51:29

It's the way of the world. Warwick District Council have a particularly poor reputation. The planning people seem to be a law unto themselves. I hope they read this and realise what they are doing and what we (the people of Leamington and Warwick) will lose if this continues. What does Chris White think? He probably can't say without upsetting his backers but I suspect he would be on the side of the independents.

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Max
12/9/2013 04:06:27

Council only concerned with their tax base. Not sure about Chris. I know he visits independents, including on occasion, Wilde's. He has also, recently, voted for gay marriage and against intervention in Syria. I like the guy a lot.

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Rick Hough
9/9/2013 10:11:40

In the US, chain restaurants and big-box stores get preposterous tax breaks while they shove the independents off the block. Often, they negotiate these breaks by threatening to move down the road to the next burg, dragging presumed revenue-producing traffic with them, yet their presence seldom can be shown to increase local revenues, while they pay less back into the host community than their mom-and-pop predecessors.
There's nothing like an expert con, hey?

Reply
Max
12/9/2013 04:11:15

So, it's the way of the world, not merely Leamington and the UK. As you say, they put little back into the community. We have just had a two day Leamington Food and Drink Festival. Conspicuous absentees included Strada, Nandos, Pizza Hut, Pizza Express et etc. They don't need to bother - and couldn't be bothered.

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Sean
13/9/2013 03:07:47

It is the same the world over, sadly. In Thailand, for example, incredibly tasty food is everywhere – from street stall to road side restaurant. Unbelievable flavours and fresh ingredients, skillfully and quickly prepared. And the biggest sign you are 'doing well' in that country? Taking your family to KFC. Style over substance. And it's only going to get worse.




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     Max Smith

    European writer, radical, restaurateur and Red Sox fan. 70-something husband, father, step-father. and grandfather. Resident in Warwick, England.

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