An ex-colleague from the world of advertising was in Wilde's for lunch last Friday. He's a regular (if not a frequent) customer; always knowledgeable when discussing food and drink and generous with his praise.
On Friday, he was particularly happy. He had just returned from Spain where he had eaten at one of the last services of El Bulli, rated by many as the best restaurant in the world.
Is it the best you've ever eaten? Without doubt, he said.
Better than Heston in Bray? I've eaten there five or six times, and only El Bulli is superior.
My friend will doubtless be heading to Knightsbridge soon to eat at Dinner, Heston's new place which is re-writing British culinary history by re-creating centuries-old dishes.
I'm not sure I will. I'm not a fan of Michelin stars, and certainly not a fan of the kind of food and ambience that is required to win them.
There are exceptions of course. Any restaurant with Sean Hill in the kitchen will win a gong or two, but Sean wins his stars almost despite himself. And Michel Roux at Gavroche also delivers class and quality without Michelin pretension.
But most of the time, we would prefer the authentic French bistro, or small independent restaurant to any of the big names. (Even in Paris, we eschew the ponciness of the Right Bank and head for a venerable neighbourhood restaurant called Chez Paul near Bastille. The rabbit rillettes are to die for!)
So, delighted as I am that Dinner has received such accolades after only being open about three days, the next time I go to town I will probably lunch at one of the Galvin brothers' bistros or at the excellent Terroirs. And right now I'm off to Warwick for veal liver and a glass of Madfish Pinot Noir for around a tenner. Think about it.
Today's listening: James Cotton, the man who took over from Little Walter in the Muddy Waters Band, leading his own jazz-blues ensemble at a gig in North Dartmouth MA back in early 1973.
On Friday, he was particularly happy. He had just returned from Spain where he had eaten at one of the last services of El Bulli, rated by many as the best restaurant in the world.
Is it the best you've ever eaten? Without doubt, he said.
Better than Heston in Bray? I've eaten there five or six times, and only El Bulli is superior.
My friend will doubtless be heading to Knightsbridge soon to eat at Dinner, Heston's new place which is re-writing British culinary history by re-creating centuries-old dishes.
I'm not sure I will. I'm not a fan of Michelin stars, and certainly not a fan of the kind of food and ambience that is required to win them.
There are exceptions of course. Any restaurant with Sean Hill in the kitchen will win a gong or two, but Sean wins his stars almost despite himself. And Michel Roux at Gavroche also delivers class and quality without Michelin pretension.
But most of the time, we would prefer the authentic French bistro, or small independent restaurant to any of the big names. (Even in Paris, we eschew the ponciness of the Right Bank and head for a venerable neighbourhood restaurant called Chez Paul near Bastille. The rabbit rillettes are to die for!)
So, delighted as I am that Dinner has received such accolades after only being open about three days, the next time I go to town I will probably lunch at one of the Galvin brothers' bistros or at the excellent Terroirs. And right now I'm off to Warwick for veal liver and a glass of Madfish Pinot Noir for around a tenner. Think about it.
Today's listening: James Cotton, the man who took over from Little Walter in the Muddy Waters Band, leading his own jazz-blues ensemble at a gig in North Dartmouth MA back in early 1973.
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