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Leamington Letters #83: Confessions of a Wine Lover

28/7/2014

14 Comments

 
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When I joined the Twittersphere, the first person I followed was Jancis Robinson. If Jancis posts a link, I follow it and I am both wiser and better informed for doing so. If I am – as so often – ignorant of a grape variety, a domaine or chateau, a region, or a vintage, it is to Ms Robinson that I and my computer turn. And if I take the opportunity to taste one of her recommendations, I am seldom disappointed. She is, in short, my first port of call when seeking information about wine and the wine trade.

Last week, searching randomly through my fiction bookshelves, I found, between the swathes of Simon Raven and Philip Roth, a pristine copy her 1997 autobiography, Confessions of a Wine Lover. It is a first edition. It must have been a gift that Christmas. But it was unread.

It is no longer. I read it over the weekend with delight and pleasure, regretting that I had not read it earlier and that it ends in 1997.  And regretting also that I did not discover wine when I was at university and trying to find something about which I could write sensibly, because Ms Robinson and I are almost direct contemporaries. We have both drank our way through the profound changes in wine since the 70s, in my case with significantly less discrimination than she. We have both swilled our way through four hour lunches. We have both shared tables with people of gargantuan appetites – for wine, for food, for life. And we both now spend not enough time in the Languedoc.

The difference is, she made wine her life and, in doing so, gave to others a life-time passion. She wouldn’t and doesn’t claim to have transformed wine writing, although she did; nor to have taken on the pin-striped male world of the wine trade, although she did; nor to have approached each wine as a wine lover rather (as Parker terms himself) a wine critic, although she did.

In fact, the section about Parker and Parkerisation is one of the most interesting in the book. Although she is too polite – and she is always polite – to criticise Robert Parker for his influence on, especially, red Bordeaux, it is clear that she does not share his taste nor his tastes. She classifies one wine as ‘The Sort of Wine Parker Likes’. But she does acknowledge that, after visiting him in Maryland, he knows exactly “what wine is for: to convive with, to wallow in, sitting round a table in good company with good food”.

Which is very much my view, and why I enjoyed so much her stories of lunches and tastings and conversations with the great and the good, the raffish and the louche.  Why I have only the slightest envy for the fact that she has led a life fulfilled with all objectives achieved. Why I don’t begrudge her the sense of contentment and satisfaction which is apparent on (almost) every page.

She is, currently, and we are – embarrassingly – discussing this 17 years after the publication of the book, probably the most respected wine writer around. And deservedly so. Because she is a true lover of wine.

And she is not a bad writer, either. 

Here’s to you, Ms Robinson. May you long enjoy the fruits (and tannins) of your labours.

Today from the everysmith vaults: In my head, I am listening to American Spring, a lovely album from 1972 by Diane Rovell and Marylin Wilson, the latter briefly married to Brian Wilson who produced at least some of this album. I have it only on vinyl (which is in France while I am in the UK), and although it was once issued on CD, it is no longer available. If anyone has it, I’ll trade …

And finally:

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The bonus: Cass and Tiger Beau are now home.
14 Comments
Laurie
28/7/2014 05:09:34

No argument that wine and wine-drinking has changed. Nor that it has been for the better. But one does miss those days. Those 11.5% and 12% clarets with real grip. I know you remember BBR's Good Ordinary before even that was Parkerised ...

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Carl
28/7/2014 05:15:02

I think that what has happened is that so much wine- different grapes, different terroirs - is now so similar. All technically excellent but without that edge. Like the Dead before they became so proficient and less inventive.

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Allan
28/7/2014 05:27:42

She is also politically more acceptable than the generation with whom she took issue! Not saying there is causation, but maybe a correlation? With the wine bar, you could probably write a piece on the democratisation of fine wine. In fact, you should. As Bob said/sang: "Businessmen, they drink my wine"!

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JackB
29/7/2014 01:57:48

I suspect Fiona Beckett is also pretty sound politically, although not in football terms! The broader point re the changes in drinking habits and the reach of wine into a broader demographic is for the sociologists. I rather think it may be to do with supermarket promotions and price rather than taste.

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James
28/7/2014 06:26:55

Curiously perhaps, it is the Languedoc where much of the more interesting, natural wines are being produced. La Gramiere with which you wetted the baby's head is a case in point. But loads of others - Gerard Bertrand that you sell for example, and Pic St Loup and Costieres de Nimes. All in your part of the world. Can't and shouldn't drink claret everyday!

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Ellie
28/7/2014 09:17:50

Two wine-and-babies blogs on the trot, Max. No politics, no baseball, no Dylan. What's happening to you?

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Sean
28/7/2014 10:11:51

Her Desert Island Discs is rather wonderful too.

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ann
28/7/2014 10:11:52

Loved Jancis from her *very* early days. Love wine. Love you et al. Love Wilde's et al. Love Cassie et al. The secret of drinking good wine is to drink it in a 'Cheers' environment - where 'everybody knows your name'.... be it with family, friends or commercial places like Wilde's where they do actually know your name - makes the experience a fond memory:-) xx

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Tom Barrett
28/7/2014 11:47:11

Heartfelt congratulations to Cass and Mike on their new arrival! Welcome into the world Tiger Beau. With love

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CJ
29/7/2014 01:13:51

American Spring! I remember it well. Like you, I have it on vinyl. Time to get the turntable out and open a bottle of ... Should be Burgundy I think for these sounds.

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CJ
29/7/2014 02:00:56

PS I wonder how many books you received that Christmas if you could 'lose' and mis-file such a gem.

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Aoxomoxoa
4/8/2014 02:52:01

Is that you, CJ, from E/T??

Pat
29/7/2014 04:13:48

"To convive with, to wallow in". Ignoring those prepositions (and isn't "convive with" tautologous?), it must be true that wine is the most sociable of drinks. Sharing a bottle in good company is one of the most enjoyable activities I know, and the image of wallowing in a bottle and the pleasure of the company is appealing. So follow me, follow, down to the hollow, and there let us wallow.

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Ray
29/7/2014 14:46:33

You have identified the solecisms of course but what the hell? The meaning is crystal clear. Enjoy wine, enjoy conversation, enjoy life!

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     Max Smith

    European writer, radical, restaurateur and Red Sox fan. 70-something husband, father, step-father. and grandfather. Resident in Warwick, England.

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